I just looked at a UTube piece on binding and felt as though I needed to add my 2 cents worth.On corners.
I was taught to sew to 1/4" from the corner, backstitch, fold and begin sewing 1/4" in on the next side. That's the standard method. Now, I do tthe same, but on the second side, I take 1-2 stitches right at the edge, backstitch, skip to a full 1/4" and procede along the binding. An "expert" told me to sew continuously from the edge, resulting in a lot of frog stitching, so I figured this one out. It works perfectly.The Last Join.
I set up the situation like the UTube directions, then use a method I invented:
1. On one of the binding pieces (generally the left), I pin a 1/4" tuck into the unfolded binding. This accounts for my seam allowances.
2. I pin the other loose binding strip so it is also open (unfolded).
3. I put one over the other and pin them to each other ONLY with 2 pins about 3" apart.
4. I cut for my diagonal join through both binding pieces at the same time. This has the advantage that I can't have one cut go one way and the other the opposite way. I know none of you have never made that mistake, but I have.
5. Un-pin, re-pin for the diagonal seam, sew.
6. Finish attaching the binding.Sleeves
For my guild's quilt show, we have to add sleeves, made from an 8 1/2" x WOQ (width of quilt) strip. For any quilt which may be hung anywhere, I generally add a sleeve when I am doing the binding.
1. Edge the 2 ends of the binding. I generally make a rolled, machine-sewn hem.
2. Fold, press, and pin the sleeve in place.
3. Attach the binding over the sleeve and quilt edges. This way, you are only sewing one edge of the sleeve in place by hand, when you are doing your binding.
Note: I try to make the sleeve from one or more of the major fabrics from the front of the quilt. This gives future generations an exact match for any repairs. If I can't do that, I make sure the sleeve on bed quilts is something really pleasant to touch, because it may well be against someone's face at times.